Photo Rob Bruce
A slightly shorter version of this piece appeared in the Daily Telegraph on July 23, 2021
The single-track roads and fragile infrastructure of Scotland’s Highlands and Islands, already creaking under the pressure of visitor numbers, is preparing for what are likely to be the busiest weeks of the year. Hot weather combined with the English school holidays and restrictions on foreign travel are likely to see more families heading north on Saturday – “Changeover day” for many holiday cottages.
Head of roads policy at the AA Jack Cousens advised families to avoid traveling at peak times. “Because of Covid cleaning protocols, most holiday cottage check-in times have moved to 4pm. People are starting a bit later than they otherwise would and it means that the roads can be particularly busy in the middle of the day.”
In popular remote areas such as the NC500 route and the Isle of Skye one-track roads with passing places struggle to accommodate lines of traffic in both directions. Beaches and mountains also don’t have adequate parking for high numbers of visitors.
Photo Rob Bruce
Classic sports cars – including a Le Mans 1933 winner – take a break from the NC500 at the Gille Brighde restaurant, Diabaig
National parks at the Cairngorms and Loch Lomond and the Trossachs have increased toilet provision and warden numbers. ScotRail is putting extra carriages onto the scenic West Highland rail route which can take up to 20 bikes. Regional transport body for the Highlands and islands HiTrans has also launched the Go-Hi app that links up public transport information to encourage people to car-share, cycle, or use buses and taxis.
However, strike action on Sundays by Scotrail staff is not helping the situation. Another pressure point is car ferries – with residents of Uist complaining they can’t book a crossing until September. There are calls to reserve places for residents.
Many families head north in campervans, caravans, motorhomes and there are also increasing numbers of “stealth vans” – hired white vans with a mattress in the back and a camping toilet. After concern last year about ‘dirty camping’, the Scottish government relaxed restrictions on temporary campsites. Highland Council is trying to create a series of ‘Àirighs’ , modeled on the French ‘Aires’ – simple sites offering waste bins and toilets.
Kate Forbes, MSP for Skye, Lochaber and Badenoch recently opened a car park and off-grid toilets at the Fairy Pools on Skye, a wild swimmers’ favorite. She has appealed for more landowners to open temporary facilities. Ruaridh Ormiston at Kingussie has opened Croila Croft Motorhome Aire, Kingussie. “Being a proud Highlander I don’t want people to feel as if they are being chased away. I want them to have somewhere secure to stay with basic facilities where they can enjoy their holiday.”
Tourist attractions however have been booming since the start of the Scottish school holidays which coincided with largely dry, fine weather – many al fresco summer shows at Pitlochry Festival Theatre are sold out, while the Atholl Pipe Band is pulling in virus-wary staycationers to drive-in shows in a field.
Wind in the Willows, Pitlochry Festival Theatre
Highland Night at the Drive In, Pitlochry
At the historic Kings’ House Hotel in Glencoe, which reopened recently as a resort-style complex, a managed wild camping site behind the hotel is home to a sprawling mini-festival of midge-resistant walkers and climbers. Host Angela Lee said: “A lot of our guests are people walking the West Highland Way – that seems very busy.”
The islands are reopening after a very quiet 18 months in which travel was restricted. “It is a bit of a shock to the system as it has been so quiet,” said Rosemary Barry who volunteers in the Isle of Lismore Heritage centre. “I have never seen the island so busy. I think the Saturday after most English schools break up, the Highlands will get even busier.” The Isle of Lismore bike hire co which provides bikes to meet the foot ferry from Port Appin was doing a roaring trade, as was the Dutch Bakery which provides cakes in an honesty shop in the red phone box at the quayside.
Like many families, Clare Smillie with her husband and daughters aged 6 and 8 holidayed in the UK this year, choosing a cottage in Aberdeenshire this year instead of their usual trip to Spain. “It was lovely to be away from home as we have both been working from home and homeschooling. The girls loved visiting castles. They also loved climbing about in rock pools at the beach.”
Pam Baker and a friend went to Tomintoul with their four-under 12s. “The kids swam in the river every day it was safe. We had some flash flood rain to dance barefoot in. That swole the river crazily, into full spate. We made wee rafts, called them names like the SS Flowers and sailed them off.”
Fred, 10, climbed his 50th Munro on his summer holiday in Wester Ross